During her lifetime, Tschingel made 66 major ascents in the Alps - including 11 first ascents - in the 1860s and 70s.
At the age of six months, Tschingel did her first ascent in 1865. She and her master, Swiss alpine guide Christian Almer, climbed to the summit of Tschingel Col (elevation 7562) - from which she took her name. After the climb, Tschingel acted as a watchdog at Christian's home in Grindelwald and gave birth to many puppies. It was not until the summer of 1868 that she began a career in mountain climbing.
Christian and his son Ulrich were personal guides to Marguerite "Meta" Brevoort and her nephew William Coolidge. Meta, born in New York in 1825, began mountain climbing when she was about 40 years old and made a name for herself as a mountaineer in the late 1860s. Meta, William, the two guides and Tschingel did several first ascents in the Alps. The party called themselves the Tschingel Company.
Christian Almer, Ulrich Almer, Meta Brevoort, William Coolidge and Tschingel |
In July 1868, the company had to give up climbing the Eiger due to dangerous ground conditions. William was greatly disappointed by the failure so Christian gave Tschingel to him as a gift. William later wrote:
"I do not clearly recollect hearing of Tschingel till July 11, 1868. That month Almer had for the first time become guide to my aunt, Miss Brevoort, and myself. On July 8 we all three made our first high climb together (the Wetterhorn) and on July 11 started from Little Scheidegg for the ascent of the Eiger. But the rocks (as often) were glazed, and we had to retreat. This disappointed me bitterly, for I was not quite eighteen years of age. Almer sympathised much with me, and so, as we were walking down that afternoon to Grindelwald, tried to comfort me by promising to give me his dog Tschingel, as one of her sons, Bello by name, was now able to act as his [Almer’s] watchdog."
Tschingel's first great climb was the Blümlisalphorn (elevation 12,011 feet). It was also nearly her last climb. According to William "She was very tired and her paws were cut by the ice. On the final slope she slipped, being still an inexperienced climber, and began to slide down the snow slopes, but was luckily rescued by one of our porters, who caught hold of her collar in the nick of time."
Tschingel's alpine skills improved as she continued to climb, and she had a "marvelous instinct for avoiding crevasses." In 1871, the company climbed the Eiger West Ridge, a very difficult ascent for a canine. "For the final ascent and for part of the descent she was roped. Although bleeding profusely in each of her paws she led the way over rocks and ice avoiding every crevasse. In short she was a born guide."
Tschingel climbed 66 major summits and about a hundred minor ones. She loved climbing and would beam with joy when she neared a summit. In 1875, she was elected as an honorary member of the Alpine Club - the first "female" member, as human females were not accepted into the Club until 1975.
Tschingel passed away in her sleep at home in England on June 16, 1879.